In Berlin, One Wall Down and Thousands to Paint


柏林一牆倒塌 滿城塗鴉


Kreuzberg, a bohemian neighborhood where Berlin’s Strassenkultur thrives, is home to projects by well-known street artists like GFA-Crew.

By ANDREAS TZORTZIS
Published: March 2, 2008


Spray cans clink in Ali’s bag as he walks down a cobblestone street in Berlin’s post-hip neighborhood of Prenzlauer Berg. He stops in front of a grocery truck and pulls out a can. He strokes his name in bubbly, bright red letters, before leaving his mark on a telephone booth, a dozen doors and a concrete wall next to the train tracks.
走在柏林的後嘻哈社區普倫茨勞堡的圓石街上,幾罐噴漆在阿里的袋子裡碰撞作響。來到一輛貨卡前時,他停下腳步,掏出一罐漆。然後以圓胖、鮮豔的紅字,噴下他的大名,接著在一個電話亭、12道門、火車軌旁的一道水泥牆留下他的標記。


“It’s a great feeling doing a piece at night and coming back the day after to look at it,” said Ali, 31, an industrial designer who didn’t want his surname used to avoid prosecution. “I also see it as reclaiming the city and shaping my urban environment.”
不願透露姓氏,以免吃官司的31歲工業設計師阿里說:「夜裡完成作品,第二天重回舊地欣賞的感覺真好。我把它當作是重新宣示這個城市的主權,還有重新點綴我的都市環境。」


Apparently, many Berliners feel the same. The city’s skyline might be defined by a Sputnik-era TV tower, bombed-out churches and the ghost of a certain wall that once split the German capital. But its streetscape is largely molded by graffiti-covered,–city in Europe.
顯然,許多柏林人都有同感。使這個城市天際線輪廓分明的特色,可能是「史普尼克」人造衛星時代的電視塔、被炸得面目全非的教堂、曾將這個德國首都一分為二的圍牆的些許殘跡。但是,柏林的街景大致是以塗鴉構成,稱柏林為歐洲被「轟」得最慘的城市應不為過,「轟」是指塗鴉滿布的俚語。


Among the graffiti “writers” who have left their mark are Banksy, the art world mystery, whose stenciled rat in a police uniform decorates a curb in Mitte. Os Gemeos, the Brazilian twins whose cartoonish works have commanded $20,000 at the Deitch Projects in New York City, have spray painted a five-story-high mural of a yellow man in an orange shirt on a building on Oppelner Strasse. And the shaking fist of the Berlin artist Kripoe swings from traffic signs, elevated train tracks and, perhaps most spectacularly, a piling in the middle of the Spree River.
留下標記的塗鴉「作者」,包括藝術界的謎樣人物班克西,他的穿警衣模板老鼠,還在米特區的道路邊緣上。卡通作品在紐約市「迪克計畫」美術館可賣到2萬美元的巴西雙胞胎歐斯‧吉米歐斯,則是以噴漆畫了一個五層樓高的壁畫,一個黃顏色的人,穿著橘襯衫,在歐本那街的一棟建築上。柏林藝術家克里波的搖擺拳頭,不僅擺動在交通號誌、高架鐵軌上,最奇觀的一個,是在斯普雷河水中央的一個樁基上。


“It’s like everyone grabbed a can of paint at one point and just went for it,” said the New York-based photographer Peter Sutherland. “It’s become a real paradise for writers.”
紐約攝影家彼得‧沙瑟蘭說:「就彷彿每個人都在某個時刻抓了罐漆,畫將起來。它成了作者的真天堂。」


The roots of graffiti culture can be traced back to West Berlin in the early 1980s, when the American-occupied sector was the reluctant melting pot of anarchist punks, Turkish immigrants and West German draft resisters.
此地塗鴉文化的起源,可回溯到1980年代初期的西柏林。當時美軍占領區不得不然地成了無政府主義的龐克族、土耳其移民和反抗徵兵的西德人的大熔爐。


While the west face of the Berlin Wall was blanketed with graffiti, the east face was orderly and gray. All that changed, with the fall of the wall in 1989, which opened up vast new blank walls virtually overnight.
當時雖然柏林圍牆的西面滿是塗鴉,東面卻是整潔的一片灰色。但這一切在1989年柏林圍牆倒塌後有了轉變。一夜間,極廣大的空白牆面開放了。


“It was kind of like New York,” said Thomas Peiser, owner of a graffiti supply store in the gritty Kreuzberg neighborhood. “It was paradise to us.”
風沙大的克羅柏格區一家塗鴉商品店的老闆湯瑪斯‧派瑟說:「它有點像紐約,是我們的天堂。」


Galleries like Circleculture, a stark storefront in Mitte, regularly exhibit internationally known street artists like Anton Unai, who often works with objects he finds on the street, and Shepard Fairey, the creator of “Obey, Giant” and, most recently, a popular poster of Barack Obama.
許多藝廊,包括在米特區有個醒目門面的「圓形文化」,都會固定展出國際知名街頭藝術家的作品。安東‧烏奈是其一,他經常以在街上發現的物件完成創作。薛帕德‧費里是其二,他是「聽話,巨人」和一張「巴拉克‧歐巴馬」人氣海報的創作者。


Last summer, Adrian Nabi, a former publisher of the pioneering Berlin graffiti magazine Backjumps, organized a “live issue,” a two-month-long graffiti festival which attracted more than 15,000 people. He still admires the audacity of the West Berlin graffiti writers of his youth.
去夏,柏林塗鴉先驅雜誌「後跳」的前發行人亞德里安‧納比,舉辦了以「當前議題」為名的兩個月塗鴉節,吸引逾15,000人參與。他對他年輕時代那些西柏林塗鴉作者的大膽作風,依然佩服。


“A writer is far more brash,” Mr. Nabi said. “They take the entire city for themselves.”
納比說:「塗鴉作者的臉皮厚得多。他們把整座城市看成自己的。」


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