Out of Miami’s Beach Party, a Cultural Oasis Takes Root 邁阿密海灘藝術季 文化綠洲扎根
Reflection of a visitor to the Rubell Family Collection in the Wynwood Art District is seen in an untitled work by Anselm Reyle. By JULIA CHAPLIN Published: February 3, 2008 The art and cocktail bacchanal known as Art Basel Miami Beach was still three months away, but that didn’t stop a hundred artists and their entourages from cramming into a raw and unoccupied restaurant in Miami’s Design District last fall. Red Bull and vodka flowed freely. A noise band jammed so loudly that it seemed to disturb the entire neighborhood. A gang of artists suspended a two-meter-long digital timer from the ceiling that counted down the milliseconds left in the party. 藝術與雞尾酒饗宴「邁阿密海灘巴塞爾藝術博覽會」還要等三個月後才登場，但這無礙一百名藝術家及隨行者去秋到「邁阿密設計專區」，擠進一家看來原始、空蕩蕩的餐廳裡。「紅牛」與伏特加免費暢飲。一個嘈雜的合唱團即興演奏，聲音之大，吵死整個社區。一票藝術家將一個兩公尺長的數位計時器從天花板垂掛而下，讓博覽會的文化派對展開毫秒倒數計時。
A Year-Round Art Party in Miami At the same time, another crowd had gathered at World Class Boxing, an old gym in a strip mall about 20 blocks away that had been delicately transformed by art collectors into a gallery. Guests admired works by international artists like Jim Lambie and Olafur Eliasson as more drinks flowed – this time from the gallery owners’ private wine label. 同一時間，另有一票人聚集在20條街外的「世界級拳擊」。那是個老體育館，在一個迷你商場裡，藝藏家精心改建成畫廊。觥籌交錯中，賓客欣賞著國際級藝術家如吉姆．蘭比與歐拉佛．艾里亞森的作品，這回喝的是畫廊主人的私藏葡萄酒。
Miami, Fla. Since Art Basel Miami Beach touched down on this city’s palm- and condo-strewn shores six years ago, a contemporary art wave has swept across Miami like a tropical storm. Art is everywhere, from the walls of boutique hotels where works by young art stars have replaced the stark minimalism of the 1990s, to what might be the nation’s first contemporary art shopping mall, the Aventura Mall. 邁阿密海灘巴塞爾藝術博覽會六年前在這個城市散布著棕櫚與獨門獨院建築的海岸登陸以來，一股當代藝術浪潮宛如熱帶風暴席捲全邁阿密。從精品飯店牆上，年輕藝術新銳的作品，取代1990年代的純粹極簡風，到可能是全美第一個當代藝術購物商場「冒險商場」，此間可說無處不藝術。 So if you missed all the hullabaloo of Art Basel, with its 43,000 visitors, countless receptions and exhibits crammed into four days in early December, not to worry. A dizzying amount of art and its whimsical after-parties now rages on all season long. 因此，要是你錯過巴塞爾博覽會的熱鬧，未能成為12月初4天內無數酒會、展覽與43,000名參觀者的一員，別擔心，後面還有數不清的藝術與別開生面的會後派對續攤一整季。 “Every gallery and institution plans their best shows during Art Basel,” said Terence Riley, the director of the Miami Art Museum. “But they generally stay up for a few months afterwards. It’s a secret time to see international, museum-quality art.” 「邁阿密藝術博物館」館長泰倫斯‧萊里說：「每家藝廊與中心在巴塞爾博覽會期間端出最好的展覽，但通常會後還會待上幾個月。這是欣賞國際博物館級藝術的私密時間。」 Miami has matured from a fleeting, shallow art showcase into an unlikely cultural oasis. 邁阿密已從一個短暫、淺薄的藝術櫥窗，蛻變成似假還真的文化綠洲。 “The Miami art scene is somewhere between young adulthood and late adolescence,” Mr. Riley said. “It’s no longer a kid, but it’s still happy-go-lucky and trying to figure out what it wants to do with its future.” 萊里說：「邁阿密的藝術景象，有點介於年輕人與17、18歲青少年之間。它不再是個孩子，而且還優哉游哉盤算未來要做什麼。」 Now there are some 70 galleries and counting, from upstarts like the Spinello Gallery and David Castillo Gallery, to internationally regarded galleries like Fredric Snitzer, Kevin Bruk and Emmanuel Perrotin. Tucked between tire shops and clothing wholesalers, their concrete facades are freshly painted in purples, pinks and charcoals – giving the area the feeling of a bohemian frontier, where idiosyncratic experiments in art and commerce are possible because of cheap rents, too much space and plenty of parking. Perhaps not surprisingly, the quality of the work is uneven, ranging from captivating to horribly clichéd. 目前當地約有70家畫廊，從暴富的「史比尼洛畫廊」、「大衛‧卡斯提留畫廊」，到國際知名的「佛雷德里克‧史尼澤」、「凱文‧布魯克」、「艾曼紐‧帕洛汀」畫廊。夾在輪胎店與服飾批發店之間，這些混凝土外牆重新粉刷成紫色、粉紅與木炭色的畫廊，給整個地區一種波希米亞的感覺，因為租金低、空間大、停車位多，特殊的藝術與商業實驗變成可能。這點或許並不意外，作品品質參差，令人驚豔與老套陳腐者雜陳。 Since Art Basel was first held in 2002, Miami artists have been snapped up by galleries in New York, Tokyo and Berlin. Hernan Bas, for example – Miami-born and known for his romantic, vaguely homoerotic paintings – now exhibits at Daniel Reich in New York and Saatchi Gallery in London and is part of MoMA’s permanent collection. And last November three Miami artists – Bert Rodriguez, William Cordova and Adler Guerrier – were chosen for the Whitney Biennial, giving the budding scene a high-profile imprimatur. 巴塞爾博覽會從2002年首展至今，邁阿密藝術家在紐約、東京、柏林畫廊眼中一直很搶手。邁阿密出生，以浪漫、曖昧的同性戀繪畫著稱的赫南‧巴斯是其中一位。他的作品目前在紐約的「丹尼爾‧萊克」與倫敦的「薩奇藝廊」展出，並獲美國紐約現代美術館永久收藏。去年11月，柏特‧羅德里蓋茲、威廉‧柯杜瓦、艾德勒‧葛瑞爾三位邁阿密藝術家獲選在「惠特尼雙年展」展出，給這些才華初露的藝術家高度肯定。 Not insignificantly, the art scene also has the support of Miami developers and real estate brokers, who offer free space to young artists and gallery owners for exhibitions as a way of adding cachet to marginal neighborhoods. 重要的是，這藝術景象同時獲得邁阿密開發商與房地產仲介支持。他們提供免費的空間給年輕藝術家與畫廊辦展，藉此拉抬邊際地區的房價。 “Bank towers, unsold condos, empty office spaces, you name it,” said Nick Lobo, a sculptor in his late 20s. After all, many of the local art collectors are also real estate developers, among them Don and Mera Rubell, Craig Robins and Marty Margulies. 年近30的雕刻家尼克‧羅波說：「銀行大樓、待售的獨門獨院建築、空辦公室，任君挑選。」畢竟，當地的藝藏家不乏房地產開發商，其中包括「唐 & 米拉‧魯貝爾」、「柯雷格‧羅賓斯」、「瑪提‧馬古利斯」。 Even on nights when there are no receptions, the art party rages. At midnight on a recent Friday, a crowd had gathered at Circa 28, a low-key bar that opened in December. 即使沒有招待會的夜晚，藝術派對還是熱熱鬧鬧。最近一個星期五半夜，一群人聚集在去年12月開張的一家低調酒吧「大約28」內。 It happened to be during the Art Basel fair, but there was not a dressed-up socialite or dark-suited corporate sponsor in sight. Abstract paintings hung crookedly on the walls, and young artists sat languidly under a bookshelf – in marked contrast to the hedonistic, nightclubs of South Beach. Outside on the deserted sidewalk, a truck pulled up and opened its flatbed to reveal a portable art exhibit and D.J. booth that began to play lounge music. 當時是巴塞爾博覽會展覽期間，但舉目不見盛裝的社交名媛，或穿深色西裝的企業贊助商。抽象畫歪歪斜斜掛在牆上，年輕藝術家懶洋洋坐在書架下，與南灘夜總會的歡樂氣氛大異其趣。在空無一人的人行道上，一輛卡車靠邊停，打開它的平台，露出移動式藝術展品與D. J.設備，開始播放沙發音樂。 Soon people trickled out of the bar, beers and all. A police car was parked a block away but seemed uninterested. A good clean party is tolerated here, almost protected, in a neighborhood with a history of more serious crime. 很快，三三兩兩有人走出酒吧，還有啤酒等。一輛警車停在一條街外，但顯得無動於衷。在這個重大犯罪時有所聞的社區，乾淨優質派對是容許而且幾乎受到保護的。 關鍵字句 文章主要說明每年12月在邁阿密舉行的巴塞爾藝術博覽會（Art Basel Miami Beach）的歡樂氣氛，說明它是一場藝術與雞尾酒饗宴（the art and cocktail bacchanal），而藝博會六年不間斷舉行，也讓文化綠洲（cultural oasis）開始在當地落地生根（take root）。 當地目前約有70家畫廊林立於商街中，醒目的油漆外觀（facade），予人波希米亞區（bohemian frontier）的感覺。而因為當地房租便宜（cheap rent），空間多，不必擔心停車問題，無論藝術或商業，任何特殊風格與表現手法的實驗（idiosyncratic experiment），在當地可行性均高。 藝博會同時捧紅不少邁阿密藝術家，赫南‧巴斯是其一。他的同性戀繪畫（homoerotic painting）受到紐約、東京、柏林藝廊搶購（snap up）。 No Need to Wait for Art Basel. It's an Art Fair All Year Long.
Miami’s go-go art scene is no longer confined to the four-day December circus known as Art Basel Miami Beach. Galleries, private collections and alternative spaces are popping up faster than weeds, particularly in the Wynwood Art District and the Design District. Here are a few places to view art-fair caliber works all season long.
WYNWOOD ART DISTRICT
The Rubell Family Collection (95 Northwest 29th Street; 305-573-6090; www.rubellfamilycollection.com) seems to get bigger and more impressive every year. Housed in an austere warehouse formerly owned by the Drug Enforcement Agency, the collection recently added a leafy sculpture garden. Check out the wondrous videos by the Miami-based artist Hernan Bas, alongside works by the European artists Urs Fischer and Anselm Reyle, until May 31.
For emerging young artists, check out Twenty Twenty (2020 Northwest Miami Court, second floor; 786-217-7683; www.twentytwentyprojects.com), a year-old alternative space on a dodgy industrial stretch. It has generated much buzz for its high-grade talent and festive openings.
The Parisian gallery Emmanuel Perrotin has a satellite location in a former refrigerator warehouse (194 Northwest 30th Street; 305-573-2130; www.galerieperrotin.com). Works by the sculptor Peter Coffin and the French installation artist Tatiana Trove are on view.
Anthony Spinello, 25, runs the jewel-box-size Spinello Gallery (2294 Northwest Second Avenue; 786-271-4223; www.spinellogallery.com), with trendy openings that often feature graffiti and graphic artists.
Andreina Fuentes, owner of Hardcore Art Contemporary Space (3326 North Miami Avenue; 305-576-1645; www.hardcoreartcontemporary.com) fills the space with works centered around social and political issues and pop culture.
You can see tomorrow’s art stars at the Bas Fisher Invitational (180 Northeast 39th Street, Suite 210), a so-called “no profit” gallery devoted to edgy, non-commercial work, started by the local artists Hernan Bas and Naomi Fisher.
The low-key Moore Space (4040 Northeast Second Avenue; 305-438-1163; www.themoorespace.org) has exquisitely curated contemporary art shows, thanks to the deep pockets of one of its patrons, Rosa de la Cruz. “French Kissin’,” an exhibit of emerging French artists, is on view until March 8.
For a mix of art, fashion and music, stop by Nektar De Stagni’s Shop (155 Northeast 38th Street; 786-556-3033; www.nektardestagni.com), a boudoir-esque boutique run by the local fashion designer and D.J. An adjoining studio is used by the artist Martin Oppel, who is also her boyfriend.
WHERE TO PARTY
Circa 28 (2826 North Miami Avenue; 305-722-1858; www.circa28.com), a bar in Wynwood, is decorated like a gentlemen’s club and is often the spot for after-parties and impromptu musical performances by visiting bands like the Brazilian Girls and Rapture.
To dance with Miami’s young art intelligentsia, hop over to Poplife (www.epoplife.com), the Saturday night party held at the White Room (1306 North Miami Avenue; 305-995-5050; www.whiteroommiami.com), a sleek club that opened in December on the edge of Overtown, an up-and-coming night-life district.
The trendy Japanese bistro Domo Japones (4000 Northeast Second Avenue; 305-573-5474) draws a post-opening crowd with innovative dishes like black edamame, and mirin-glazed short ribs. Dinner, about $75 for two including wine, is served until midnight.
Lost and Found Saloon (185 Northwest 36th Street; 305-576-1008; www.thelostandfoundsaloon-miami.com) is a popular pit stop for gallery hoppers and paint-splattered artists. The laid-back cafe has a campy, frontiersman décor and serves Southwestern fare like “posse energy burritos” ($6.75) and piñon-and-pepita-crusted tofu ($9.25).